MEDICARE LETTER TO AMERICAN EXPATS, JANUARY, 2019: WHAT TO DO

If you are an American living in France, and if your address with Social Security and Medicare is a French address, you may have recently received a letter advising you that you were going to be issued a new Medicare card. It seems they've decided that having our Social Security numbers on the cards was inappropriate, a potential breech of security. So new cards were being mailed.

Except, of course, new cards would not be mailed to addresses outside of the United States.

Never fear. If you have an account at MyMedicare.gov, you can print an official copy of your card and use it until you are in a position to obtain a new one. If you don't have an account, you can create one. There was another workaround, something about calling Medicare from a mobile phone from within the United States. But since we have no plans to go back to the States in the immediate future, my only ready option was to create that account on MyMedicare.gov.

Except, of course, that I wasn't allowed create an account. Error message. Why? I guessed that it was because off the foreign postal code. That guess turned out to be correct. How do I know? Because, believe it or not, MyMedicare.gov has a 24/7 Chat function. I waited less that a minute. Zach was very clear. That's right. You can't create an account with a foreign address attached. If you already have an account, you can access it from anywhere. But if your address with Social Security is foreign, you are out of luck.

I asked Zach to describe my Catch-22 plight to his supervisor. He said that he would. I asked how to make a formal complaint to Medicare. He advised me to call them directly: 1-800-MEDICARE. Guess what. Available 24/7.

I called. I explained my situation. The agent advised my that they were aware of the problem and were working on it. I asked what I should do in the interim. The answer? Identify yourself to me satisfactorily and I will send you a letter certifying that you are covered that you will receive in ten days. After four weeks, you'll get your new card in the mail.

Who knew that single-payer healthcare could be so efficient?


BAGELS, KARO SYRUP, MOLASSES, AND OTHER STUFF WE MISS IN FRANCE: JANUARY 2019

Three and a half years ago, an early blog post of mine listed American foods that I missed the most after I'd spent about 16 months living permanently here in the rural south of France. Then a week ago, after five years here, I began a post with a rant about the lack of readily available peanut butter. Both posts engendered a great deal of interest, particularly among my Facebook friends.

Within 24 hours of lamenting that the major supermarkets in the area had pulled less expensive, European produced peanut butter from the shelves in favor of more expensive, imported varieties, FB friends had pointed out such alternative possibilities as Super U, Lidl (during the upcoming American Week), and various stores, health food and otherwise. I'd been alerted against palm oil and artificial sweeteners. Folks were engaged. Not exactly viral, but clearly touching a common nerve. So I've decided to update that August, 2015 list with a new one.

What is it that still frustrates us after five years? What can Americans expect to either self-import or do without when they decamp from the USofA to Occitanie?

Well, when you talk to my wife Cathey, it's not just about the foods. It's about the ingredients, ingredients that are essential to her cooking, ingredients that may or may not be able to be hacked. I have therefore created four categories of Shopping for Americans Visiting Expats...SAVE. (With anticipated chapters throughout Europe.)

SAVE 4: NOT ANY MORE
The least important category to consider when shopping for a prospective visit to an American living in France, NOT ANY MORE items might once have been essential fillers of unused checked baggage space, but no longer. We can get that stuff now. Why? Maybe supply and demand. Maybe karma. But Reese's Peanut Butter Cups are readily available in any number of stores. Even the white chocolate variety. So are ziplock bags that actually ziplock and garbage bags that you can lift up without having the bottom of the bags split and spill leftover lentils all over your blue suede shoes. Brown sugar, not cane sugar, is in the "See It, Buy Five' category along with panko and potstickers, but the new Asian Market in Beziers may prove a dependable supplier of the latter two.

SAVE 3: HACKABLE
You guessed it. HACKABLES are hackable. Chocolate chips? Chop up chocolate. Jimmy Dean-style sausage patties for sausage gravy? The recipe (or a reasonable facsimile) is online and a trip to the butcher and to the pantry are all that's needed. SAVE 3 is not to be confused with the next category, SAVE 2: CLOSE but no cigar. CLOSE can never be confused with the real thing. HACKABLES are basically the real thing, just not packaged like the real thing. Need cornmeal? Polenta is boiled cornmeal. Grind down polenta and, while you haven't exactly unboiled it, it's still just cornmeal.

SAVE 2: CLOSE
So you want a Nathan's Hot Dog? They aren't sold here. Yeah, you can ship 'em, but you can ship anything. Assume that I'm not Jeff Bezos...before the divorce. Nathan's just aren't going to arrive in my mailbox. But there are all sorts of sausages, plain and smoked, that make for a near-dog experience. Of course, if you want a cheap, white bread, squishy bun to go with your dog-like sausage, FORGET IT (SAVE 1).  

How about cream cheese and lox on a bagel? I can get you close but I can't take you all the way there. The smoked fish here is just fine. Salmon or trout. Rough and salty or slick and subtle? Your choice. Cream cheese? You can actually buy Philadelphia Cream Cheese readily, but it ain't Philadelphia Cream Cheese. The formula has been changed. They do that to us in Europe now and again. They add sugar or otherwise 'adjust' for some reason and you are left disappointed. Try St. Môret. Comes in a tub, spreads nicely, and tastes more like Philadelphia Cream Cheese than the box that says Philadelphia Cream Cheese on the shelf next to it. Bagels? FORGET IT. There are rumors that bagels are to be had in some of France's larger cities. I have not been provided with an example to study and therefore cannot confirm. When it comes to bread, though, the French provide a wide array of options. (But none in the style of Wonder Bread.) Buy a fresh baked loaf or roll from your local baker, hold your noise, and pretend that there's a hole in the middle and that you bought it at 6h00 at the bakery in Brooklyn.

SAVE 1: FORGET IT
Golden syrup is not Karo syrup. It just isn't. And treacle isn't molasses. Garlic dill pickles out of the barrel? You can find jars of dill pickles, but they are not even CLOSE. There's no substitute for Hershey's Cocoa when you're baking a chocolate something, regardless of all of the great chocolate powders that sit on French shelves. Doughnuts are available, yes. But Krispy Kreme is in a category of its own and that category is not found in France.

Gebhart's Chili Powder? Old Bay Seasoning? These are ingredients that you may be able to approximate, but the result would be different, not CLOSE at all.

Did I mention squishy white bread? Right. I did.

What's on your list? What do your family and friends pack in their luggage when they come for a visit? What do you wish that they would?

PEANUT BUTTER, E-TAIL, AND YES, BREXIT AND TRUMP: JANUARY, 2019 RANT

PEANUT BUTTER

What's so hard about it? You take a pile of peanuts, you grind 'em up, you put the resulting paste in a jar, and there you have it. Peanut butter. High in protein. Calorie dense, yes. But not excessively so. It's good for you, dammit. And if you keep it simple without adding sweeteners or stirring in chocolate, it's an inexpensive, natural food.

Peanut butter is an essential part of my daily breakfast. I take a few fibrous crackers (fiber is good for you), spread some peanut butter on them (for morning protein), and cover the peanut butter with blackberry jam (high in vitamin C). In preparation for this post, I even read about a 2009 study that found that rats who were fed blackberries had improved cognitive and motor skills over a control group. So don't give me a hard time for breakfasting on PB&J. Nobody's going to mess with my cognitive skills by putting me in a control group, thank you very much.

Apparently, however, the French don't appreciate the benefits of the humble goober and its accompanying comestibles. When we first arrived in France going on five years ago, I found jars of the heavenly paté d'arachide for under 5€/kg. Cheap as chips. Over the years, more and more imported jars became available - Skippy and Reese's and others - but they sold for 10€/kg. 14€/kg, and more. Fine. Go gourmet if you must. The cheap stuff was still available.

Until now.

Gone from E.Leclerc. Gone from Carrefour. Gone from Géant. Gone. I either have to spend way too much money or give up peanut butter altogether. The French can't keep Nutella on the shelves, for heaven's sake. They make a spreadable paste out of Speculos, the French equivalent of graham crackers. But peanut butter? Can't be bothered. As one frustrated blogger has complained, the French will slather garlic butter on snails but find peanut butter disgusting? How does that work?

There's no excuse for it. No excuse.

E-TAIL IN FRANCE

Jeff Bezos is a genius. Well, except for the prenup thing. But the idea that you don't need a brick-and-mortar store to build a retail empire was inspired. In France, Amazon's major e-tail competitor, pale by comparison, is Cdiscount. I don't use Cdiscount much, mostly to comparison shop. And sure enough, when Cathey decided that she needed another wall-mounted kitchen cabinet, Cdiscount came up with the winner. A close match to our current cabinets, which are of course no longer in production, and reasonably priced as well. Free delivery. I made the order.

Do you want to join our discount club?

No.

Free for the first month. Are you certain?

Yes. I'm certain. Can I buy the cabinet, please.

(Remember, this is all in French. At times like this, Google Translate is your friend.)

Okay. Credit card please.

And so I paid. And so I discovered that Cdiscount would not be the supplier of the cabinet. No. Cdiscount, having received payment, sent me to Comforium, a purveyor of kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Apparently Belgian. At least, it appears that the cabinet would be coming from Belgium.

I quickly received an email from Comforium confirming my order and giving me a delivery date of no later than November 27. So far so good.

On December  3, I emailed Comforium and copied Cdiscount. Where's the cabinet?

It's being prepared for shipment.

When can I expect it?

Next week.

Repeat on December 17.

Repeat on December 24. I added that if the cabinet did not arrive the following week, I would expect my money back. If that seems unduly patient of me, you must understand. This is France. Not quite Mexico, but certainly not the United States. You expect timely communication? You expect timely delivery? What planet do you live on?

You learn patience or you stroke out.

On January 7, I received an email from Comforium. The cabinet that I ordered isn't in stock any more and there's not a date certain for restock. With Google translate in reserve, I initiated an online chat with Comforium. Cathey and I had gone up on the Comforium website and had found a cabinet substantially the same as the one that we had ordered but without windows in the doors. A little icon indicated that it was in stock. Fingers crossed...

Could we order that one instead? Reference number so-and-so...

Yes. it's in stock. I'll have customer service call you to confirm.

I'd really rather have them email me. I have trouble understanding French on the phone.

Noted.

Of course, within the hour, customer service called. But I got through it. Then came an email with a link to follow to track the order.

Meanwhile, Cdiscount sent me an email. Your refund should arrive within 72 hours. Hmmm. And yes, a couple of days later a full refund appeared in my bank account. The same day, the cabinet left Belgium. And yesterday I received a voicemail announcing delivery tomorrow between 13h00 and 15h00.

Will the cabinet arrive? Will the driver expect payment? If not, will either Comforium or Cdiscount realize that they've shipped me a free cabinet?

Stay tuned.

BREXIT AND TRUMP

Holy Shit! That's all. Just that. Holy Shit!



OSTERIA DELL'ARCO, ALBA, ITALY: WHITE TRUFFLE FESTIVAL RESTAURANT REVIEW

Truffles, like wine, create an almost cult-like atmosphere when their devotees gather.

The connoisseurs of both truffles and wine converse in specific and mystical languages. They may wear badges and ritual clothing. They take that which is common out of the realm of the ordinary, elevating it to heavenly status. Cult-like. Am I being serious? Kinda sorta. Anybody who grows grapes can make wine. Anybody with the patience to plant and nurture an orchard can produce truffles and train a pig or a dog to find them.

OK. Maybe making good wine is a complicated chemical process requiring precision timing from harvest to vinification. And it's certainly true that if truffles were as easy to farm and as plentiful as grapes, they wouldn't be quite so expensive even without what I consider their artificially constructed mystique. But you get the picture. We're talking about products of nature here, known to mankind for centuries. We don't have tasting contests for peanut butter. And I'm one of many who are passionate about that delicacy, particularly when wed to chocolate.

But I digress. And, if you read ahead, you will learn that a white truffle shaved in a restaurant, even if the truffle isn't at your table, can be a sensory experience like no other.

Cathey and I don't exchange gifts on birthdays or our anniversary or Christmas. Instead, we designate special times as surrogates for those purposes. In 2018, I arranged a surprise trip to Alba, Italy for the International White Truffle Festival. I didn't tell Cathey where we were going and why. I did tell her how many nights we would be staying at our destination, what the weather would be like, and what types of clothing might be appropriate to the activities that we would be undertaking. Given the popularity of the event, I booked our Airbnb well in advance and, after much online investigation, reserved all of our dinners and a lunch or two in highly rated Alba restaurants. (I was pleased that our Airbnb host considered my choices spot on.)

I will discuss dinner on the night of our arrival in a following post. We took our first luncheon, after a stroll around the picturesque Old Town and some serious window shopping, at Osteria Dell'Arco. It took a bit of finding, tucked away in an unmarked courtyard. We had to ask directions after our GPS took us to a blank wall. But once found through a passageway between two shops, definitely worth the effort. It's a semi-formal but inviting white table cloth and crystal restaurant with a diverse and interesting menu, helpful and knowledgeable waitstaff, and most importantly, good food well-prepared and reasonably priced for the place, time, and quality.

We don't do aperitifs. We start with wine. We eschewed the list and simply asked for a bottle of local white, not too sweet. The result was a crisp, clean Piedmont. Perfect. And at 13€, nicely priced for a restaurant bottle.

I won't spend time critiquing each dish. Everything that we ordered came prepared as we expected it to be, plainly but elegantly presented, in proper portions, cooked and spiced to perfection, and delivered in a timely yet unhurried fashion.

Cathey began with salt cod garnished with black truffle shavings and in-house baked crackers, had slow-cooked rabbit for her main, and sorbet for dessert. I started with veal tartare, went on to slices of local beefsteak, and finished with a very chocolatey chocolate construct for dessert. Cathey enjoyed every bit of her meal. Double for me. It turned out to be one of my two favorite meals of the trip. And the veal tartare was a revelation.

With coffee for me at the finish, a small cover charge, and a small charge for a bottle of still water, the tab came to 77€. I've spent much more for meals that I enjoyed much less.

Below, you'll find a picture that I took of the folks at the table next to us, a three-generation family who had brought a softball-sized white truffle with them. After they posed the toddlers with their hands on the truffle, the chef came out and shaved the truffle onto their pasta. I can only describe the resulting aroma that filled our entire side of the restaurant as awesome. Foodie perfume. Completely different and much more aromatic than any black truffle experience that I have ever had.

Almost worth joining the cult...
 












 


PELOSI, OCASIO-CORTEZ, GENERATIONAL DIFFERENCES, AND SOCIAL MEDIA

First of all, some housekeeping...

This post will be rather lengthy and rather dry. There will be no pictures of food and very few, if any, zingy one-liners. So settle in. Smoke 'em if ya got 'em. You'll be here for a few minutes.

Secondly, I will provide no citations. This is not my doctoral thesis. If you feel the need for citations, provide them in your response.

Onward.

If you have ever captained a team, managed a staff, or chaired a committee, and if the people that you were engaged with varied in age from the Greatest Generation to Millennials, and if you were at all effective, then you spent the time necessary to understand the differing attitudes that differing ages present. If you were effective without consciously considering those differences, God bless you. You are either an outstanding intuitive leader or you were lucky as hell. But it seems to me that today, given the headlines and the ruckus on social media concerning the new US Congress, it pays to take the time to understand the forces at work that compel folks like Nancy Pelosi and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez to think and act the way that they do. Whether or not they understand those forces is another matter. We can but hope. For now, let's see if we can lead our leaders by example, take a step back, and try to understand.   

Pelosi fits somewhere between the Greatest Generation and Baby Boomers. Born in 1940, Pelosi married in her early 20s to a man that she met in college while studying political science and, 55 years later, they are still married. Pelosi's mother was born in Italy. Her father was a Congressman and Mayor of Baltimore. Pelosi attended campaign rallies and political events with her father as an adolescent, graduated college with a degree in political science, and interned for a US Senator.

Pelosi worked her way up the political ladder after the family moved to California. She won some and she lost some. Eventually, at the age of 47, she won a special election as the handpicked successor to replace a deceased Congresswoman who herself had replaced her deceased husband.

Pelosi is the first woman to have been elected Speaker of the House and, as the next in line for the Presidency after the Vice President, can be considered the most powerful female elected public official in US history.

In other words, Pelosi went into the family business and has been highly successful at it.

Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez is a Millennial. She also has a mother born outside of the continental United States, though being Puerto Rican means that her mother was a US citizen. Ocasio-Cortez also majored in a field suitable for a political career - international relations. But there, the similarities between the two women ends.

Ocasio-Cortez's family can best be described as working class, unlike Pelosi's high-profile parentage. At 29, Ocasio-Cortez is the youngest woman ever to serve in the US Congress. Pelosi was nearing 50 years old and had just begun her stint in Congress when Ocasio-Cortex was born. Pelosi has been married for 55 years. Ocasio-Cortez has never married. Pelosi was elected to several positions in the Democratic Party including to the Democratic National Committee before her successful Congressional run. The first time that Ocasio-Cortez was on a ballot was in the Democratic primary for the Congressional seat that she eventually won.

In other words, Ocasio-Cortez has burst upon the political scene young and fresh. She's never held political office before and, as of today, she's been a legislator for less than a week.  

Is any of this important? Yes. They are markers for the differences in substance and style that we are seeing played out today.

Pelosi's generation believes in process, respect for the process, respect for authority gained through process. Pelosi's generation believes in institutional stability, in understanding institutional history, in respecting institutional traditions. Pelosi's generation views the ship of state as an oil tanker, needing a steady hand at the wheel and considerable time and patience to coax into changing course, course changes that occur slowly and in measured steps. Her career path validates these beliefs.

If you are a Millennial, I have just described a hidebound, even fossilized attitude toward government that is precisely the 'problem' with government that Millennials find frustrating. 

Ocasio-Cortez's generation wants to make an impact. Now. They have been told by their Baby Boomer parents that they are capable of anything, that they can change the world, that they are the best and the brightest. Knowing what needs to be done, they are eager to get on with it, not in increments but in leaps. Institutions that do not serve their agenda, traditions that hinder immediate progress are to be swept aside. Get with the program or get out of the way. Ocasio-Cortez's rapid rise in political prominence validates these beliefs.

And so, Ocasio-Cortez wants a special climate change committee to attack what she sees as an immediate and existential problem. Pelosi says that the House already has a committee tasked with overseeing the government's environmental policy and the ranking member, a woman who is in her sixth term, has an approval rating from environmental groups that exceeds 90%. Impasse.

Purely given their ages, regardless of their political philosophies, Pelosi and Ocasio-Cortez are bound to bump heads. Is one's attitude right and the other's wrong? Not necessarily. Is the gulf between them impenetrable? I don't think so. I think that they are just different and that differences of this type can be worked through if they are understood and accounted for. They, and the factions within the Democratic Party that they represent, are intelligent and committed. We can see glimmers of readjustment and compromise already. Will glimmers be enough? We'll see.

One factor determining the ability of the Party to avoid self-immolation might be the power of social media. So let's look at that quickly.

It is not hyperbole to say that social media is addicting. That is, in fact, exactly the case. Every Like, Retweet, Share, Reply, and the dings and beeps that accompany notifications on your devices release a little dose of dopamine into the brain. That's exactly what heroin does. Those prone to addiction become dependent on that dose. And if you've been dosed since adolescence, you are well and truly hooked. That's why savvy advertisers and purveyors of conspiracy theories and Russian trolls are so heavily into social media. That's why Millennials are so consumed by it. And that's why the mainstream media focus on social media. Hence Ocasio-Cortez reacts to everything that is said about her on social media. Every interaction feeds her addiction. And that's why Ocasio-Cortez has become the darling of traditional media. MSM can piggyback on her following.

This is no criticism of Ocasio-Cortez. This is an explanation of why she is misunderstood by those who haven't taken the time to understand the forces that created her. That's why she is indeed, no disparagement intended, the latest 'shiny' thing. She creates a massive, repetitive dopamine release for herself and for her generation.

Why is this important?

A man standing on a soapbox on a street corner explaining to whoever will listen that youth soccer leagues are a plot to ingrain European socialism into the minds of American adolescents might get two or three people to listen out of the thousands that pass by if the soapbox is in Times Square. Who cares about two or three people in Times Square? But magnify that voice to international volume through social media. Easy to do. Follow that speaker, day and night, from anywhere that you live and work. Easy to do. Get a little dose of dopamine every time that your positive comment about that speaker is Liked. Every time. And you are tied to that speaker, like it or not, as an addict is tied to his dealer.

The proposition that couldn't draw a crowd in Times Square is trending, being discussed by a panel of experts on CNN, and the subject of an op-ed in the New York Times by a sitting US Senator. #soccersocialism

And so we have Twitter duels. And if you don't  get how important they are, don't think that it's worth understanding that we are all pushed and pulled by them, then you haven't been listening. So...

Please Like this post. Share this to your friends. Subscribe to my channel.

Your eyelids are getting heavy. You are getting sleepy. When you wake up, you will have no memory of this post.






CHRISTMAS MARKET NARBONNE 2018

The afternoon was clear and warm for late December between Christmas and New Year. The crowds were a bit thin, to be expected in the twixt holiday lull. But the little huts were all open and the proprietors were happy to be of service. Enjoy the pics.
























Why not?





SPRING IN FRANCE, STEVE MARTIN, DICKEY BETTS AND MORE - #20

SPRING It's spring in France and the sky is that special shade of blue. Close your eyes. Say that quietly to yourself. It's spring ...