I don't know if Small Town America still exists. I remember walking down Main Street as a kid in my home town in rural New Jersey of about 3,000 souls and having to keep an eye out for falling candy. The chief of police, sitting on the balcony of the local hotel, would toss those little squares of Bazooka Bubble Gum at you, hitting you on the head if you weren't careful. I can't imagine that happening today. Some woke parent would sue him for reckless endangerment.
I'm not saying that the town cop in our rural village in the south of France throws stuff at us. But he knows all of us, enforces the rules when he must, but does so with a light touch and with neighborly concern. Just a small town cop like that chief of police 70 years ago. I guess that's my point. When we moved to Quarante, we thought that it would take years to settle into a caring community like that New Jersey town that has changed so much in the interim. Instead, our new village folded us in as a matter of course. As we demonstrated that we had come to stay and that we intended to contribute, we were welcomed warmheartedly, provided with a social network (excuse the expression) that is rich and rewarding. Here are some examples of what I'm talking about.
THE BUTCHER I noticed that one of those four-wheeled carts with a basket in front that is used by folks with difficulty walking was parked outside of Pierre's butcher shop as I entered to pick up some saucisses de francfort for lunch the other day. Sure enough, an elderly gent wearing shorts that showed extensive purple bruising on his legs was bent over, peering into one of the display cases, deciding on his purchases for the week, taking his time, discussing with Pierre how much of this and how many of that he might need. As always, I waited patiently. After all. I'm retired. Every day is Saturday. No rush.
As the customer input his debit card info, Pierre loaded his purchases into a sack and then, after handing the gent back his receipt, he didn't just hand back the loaded sack. Pierre walked out from behind the counter, opened the door, helped the gent down the three stairs at the entrance, placed the sack into the basket, shook the gent's hand, and returned to the shop to take care of me. I told Pierre that I thought that he was very kind. He just shrugged in that French way, went behind the counter, and asked me what I wanted.
THE VEGGIE LADY Some French villages have extensive weekly markets with a myriad of stalls crammed into every nook and cranny of the village. Some have dedicated market squares with a set array of vendors. Quarante has a veggie lady on Wednesdays. Occasionally, once every few months, the mattress guy shows up. He keeps coming because it seems as though he always makes a sale or two. Other vendors come and go. The shoe salesman has a tricky trailer that opens up into a mini shop. The furniture guy and his son showed up once, putting inexpensive extendable dining tables on display. Our local caterer tried selling hot, prepared dishes for dinner for a while. But there's only one who shows up every week, every Wednesday, rain or shine. The veggie lady.
The veggie lady's stuff is always fresh, always seasonal, although a small greenhouse ensures that there's always lettuce. All manner of tomatoes during the many months that tomatoes roll in. Fruits in their time, including a brief, heavenly few weeks of strawberries. Always root veggies. Always carrots. I have often bought a couple or three carrots to feed the donkeys or the horses that we pass on our thrice-weekly walks around the village and through the vines. Maybe 50¢. I don't have to buy them any more. There's always a carrot or two that aren't fit for sale and, once she knew why I was buying the carrots, the veggie lady gave me the culls. Free. With a smile. Pour les chevaux. For the horses.
SPEAKING ENGLISH When folks are considering moving to France and ask for advice, the advice usually starts with learning the language. Not that it's easy. But you start with Good Morning and Please and Thank You and you work your way up from there. The hard parts? Tenses and vocabulary. I have given up on all but the simplest ways to express tense - past, present, and future. That's it. Hard enough. I'm too old to worry about conditional or pluperfect. And I get by. My French friends know that I'm trying. Contrary to the way that the French are often characterized, they appreciate the attempt and work with me. Not what you would expect from the trope of French being snooty about their language.
And a bit surprisingly, our local French are curious about our language. As I came home from shopping today, a neighbor greeted me with a comment about the weather, blue sky and a fresh breeze. I agreed that I was glad that our hot summer appeared to be over. All in French. Then he said,"Automne. La saison. En Anglais?" So I told him that it was the same in English. Autumn. Or fall, more often. Then I listed them in order. Fall, winter, spring, and summer. Automne, hiver, printemps, été. And he nodded, thanked me, we wished each other a good day, and we went on our ways.
Idioms can be hard. When the electric window on my car failed, I learned the phrase leve-vitre. Literally Up-Glass. I have taken courses, played with Duolingo and Rosetta Stone, and leve-vitre has never come up. When I told my mechanic that my fênetre electrique (electric window) was broken, he knew exactly what I was talking about. And then he taught me leve-vitre.
While we find French idioms difficult, our French friends can have trouble with the English instructions for the operation of all sorts of devices and materials. The server at the Bar 40 came to our table recently with a screenshot of the English-language manual for one of the pieces of equipment she was cleaning. She pointed to a word. Descale. "It is necessary to descale the surfaces regularly." While I tried to explain that scale was the white residue that hard water left on coffee pots, a friend pulled out his phone and found the corresponding French word: détartrage. Usually a word used at the dentist, but I suppose tartar and scale are comparable. And dentists have coffee pots too.